Having issues with some of your brake pistons not moving properly? If so, you could be leaving significant brake performance on the table. Luckily, it’s a fairly simple thing to fix if you’ve got the right tool. Here's a tool that can be used on a variety of 2 and 4 piston brakes. The tool constrains all but 1 of the pistons so you can get the stuck piston moving with ease. Just drop the tool into your brake, pull the brake lever and hey presto, the stuck piston will move. Clean the piston with a cotton bud and gently press the piston back into the brake caliper with your tyre lever. If you want to clean them all, push them all back with your tyre lever and do them one at a time. Put simply, this tool makes it easy to advance a brake piston as far as possible without popping it completely out of the caliper. This allows for as much of the piston to be cleaned as possible, which helps you maximise your braking performance. The tool looks a bit odd, but between rotating and flipping the tool you can extend any brake piston. It also has a chamfer on the leading edges which makes it easier to insert in your brake caliper. We promise that the tool doesn't look nearly as bad as the product image, we just have been without photography resources recently and wanted to list it anyway. Cleaning procedure: Carefully push all pistons back into the caliper using a tyre lever Insert this tool. Put the retaining pin through the tool and caliper to keep it in place Pump the brake and watch that the piston on the side of the tool with the cutout extends Stop once the piston hits the tool - feel free to grab the brake lever a few times Remove the tool Clean the sides of the piston - we use isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs Push the piston back into the caliper with your tyre lever Repeat with other pistons Optional - apply a droplet of brake oil to the piston surface before pushing it back in. Only do this if you are going to douse the caliper with alcohol to clean it after the procedure, you don't want any rogue fluid hanging around! While it is possible to perform this job on 2 piston brakes by carefully constraining 1 piston with a plastic tyre lever and pulling the brake lever, this tool makes it a whole lot easier and ensures you don’t pop the piston right out of the caliper. Compatibility: Shimano 4 Piston - This tool works on all Shimano 4 piston calipers and will probably work on any other brake that can accept this brake pad type Sram Guide - Works for all Sram Guide brakes except for Guide RE - they use the Sram Code tool. The brake pad type looks like this. Sram Code - Works on Sram code and Sram Guide RE brake calipers. The brake pad type looks like this. Shimano 2 Piston (not road) & Tektro - Works on all non-road/gravel shimano 2 piston mountain bike brake calipers as well as other brakes using either this pad type or this pad type. Another common brake type this works for is tektro 2 piston brakes Shimano Road - works on Shimano road and gravel brake calipers - or any brake using this pad type Sram Level and Elixer - Works on any brake using this style of pad, as long as the brake pads can be inserted from the top. Here's roughly what the tool will look like when being used Park tool has this video available which explains the process without using this tool on 2 piston brakes. It's the same procedure for 4 piston brakes, just use this tool.

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Needing DOT 5.1 fluid to bleed your brakes? This will do the trick! It costs about half as much as SRAM fluid and, as with anything Liqui Moly, it's great quality stuff! The shelf life of DOT 5.1 is 12 months from the date of opening. In reality you can get more out of it if you would like to. Please ignore the cheeky "expiry" date printed on the bottle by the manufacturer, this seems disingenuous to us. 

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Pedros tyre levers are by far our favourite tyre levers. They are strong, shaped well and seem to get the job done when other levers have problems. Here's a pair, because we care.  We don't think there's much of a contest, Pedros tyre levers really are some of (if not the) best tyre levers on the market. Here's the breakdown of reviews that google has aggregated (as of 24-08-21, 12pm):

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Air can service kits for fox float shocks from 2006 onwards. They contain all of the parts you require for an aircan service. These seals have reduced friction on the stock kits, we have been impressed. Compatibility: Float X (2022+): For model year 2022 onward Fox Float X shocks Standard: For all standard type fox float shocks from 2006 onwards except for: - EVOL (Extra Volume) models, year 2023 onwards- Float X model years, 2023 onwards - Float X2 Lubrication The only other thing you need is a quality assembly grease/seal lubricant. Traditionally, Fox float fluid is recommended, but we prefer to use Slickoleum.  

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DMR Deathgrips are our favorite grips because of their waffle pattern and knurling that provide excellent grip. Additionally, they feature a mushroom on the inner side for added comfort. If you have large hands or prefer a softer grip, choose the thicker version. However, if you prefer a more direct feel of your front wheel, opt for the thinner version. We offer both flanged and flangeless versions of Deathgrips; this is the flangeless version. Fancy a bling pair? Pay a little extra and get custom colour collars!

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Here's a great quality shock pump for making adjustments to the air pressure of your suspension. Shock pumps are a must have these days and this one does the trick extremely well! :)  Features: 300psi maximum pressure Pressure adjust button to finely tune your pressure Rotating hose so it doesn't take up too much space Note: These are the same base shock pump as the Rockshox shock pumps are. The differences are: Dial colour Body colour Adapter type -  this adapter is slightly shorter Branding

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Rock that custom colour scheme with 1.8mm cable end caps in a variety of colours 😊

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These rechargeable commuter lights are a great way to be seen while you are out on the roads at night. They come in two colours: White, for the front, and Red, for the rear. They have 5 settings: High, Medium, Low, Flashing 1 and Flashing 2.  Each light comes with it's own micro usb charging cable. A stretchy (yet thick) rubber strap on the back allows you to mount them to your handlebars or seat-post. These lights have an IP65 rating, which means they are good for use in the rain but they likely won't survive being dropped in puddles. We haven't verified the manufacturers claims of brightness so we have not listed it. Our long term testing suggests that they are plenty bright to be seen well out on the road. In fact, we think they are a bit brighter than most commuter lights. Battery life from our tests :The red lights have an average battery life of 12.5 hours when used on the Flashing 1 setting (the most sensible for using in traffic). For their entire operation, the red lights have the same brightness - i.e. they just stop working at about 12.5 hours.The white lights also have an average battery life of 12.5 hours when used on the Flashing 1 setting. This is when the light starts dimming and it continues dimming until it stops working entirely at about 14-15 hours.Note: The safest setting for riding in traffic is the first flashing setting. Lights which are flashing are much more easily noticed by traffic.

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for Magura MT5 and MT5 brakes. The 2pc version is cheaper but the 4pc version tends to align better and rub less. The 2pc version can be found here. We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads, a new local brand. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We are stoked to finally see a NZ brand offering good pads and trying to address the generally overpriced market for braking products, it’s something we can fully get on-board with. Performance Guarantee:Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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The most effective way of reducing noise on your bike is to reduce chain-slap. STFU Bike was developed with Chris Kovarik (a.k.a. Karver) and is the best product on the market for this job. Included in the product are two adjustable Drivetrain Damping modules that mount to your swingarm. When your chain is installed through STFU it is encased in muted rubber - chain-slap still happens it just causes much less noise. Important note: When you install this product ensure the cable tie is pulled quite tight using pliers. Re-tighten the cable ties after every second ride for the first 10 rides as they tend to stretch. If the cable ties stretch too much the product can rotate and go through your spokes which will cause significant damage to it (but your wheel will be fine). Compatibility: Trail - Suits bikes with 1x gearing (single chain ring)  and 9 - 13 speed with up to a 52 tooth cassette DH 7 Speed - Suits 7 speed downhill bikes with up to a 26 tooth cassette DH 10 Speed - Designed around 10 speed shimano style downhill drive-train with up to a 32 tooth cassette. Suitable for 8-12 speed Installation:Instructions on how to install STFU Bike can be found on the STFU Bike website.

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You're looking at a mighty tubeless valve. It seals well to the rim and, since it's a presta valve, it has a removable core so that you can clean it when its inevitably become blocked by overambitious tyre sealant. At 46mm long it fits even reasonably deep carbon mtb rims. Not only a decent valve, it can be used with tyre inserts because of it's t-shaped air passages. It also has a hex slot at the base also allows you to hold the valve still, just in case you ever need to (valves can get rather slippery). We're not quite sure why other valves, like Cushcore ones, retail for $50 plus per pair - it seems a bit steep.  Note: This is one valve, if you want to purchase a pair you will need to purchase two... Math 🤓

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Here's a bleed kit for bleeding Magura brakes. It contains a syringe, tubing with a caliper adapter and a bleed funnel with an adapter for the lever. Conveniently Magura has used this connection system in their brakes for over ten years!  We used to sell kits with two syringes but we've found that bleeding brakes with a funnel is much better than two syringes. The biggest perk though, is you can now do a lever bleed (like on shimano brakes). You'll still need to get some mineral oil and we recommend making a bleed block of some sort for your brakes. 

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