After a couple of years selling a decent sealant, we decided it was time to see if we could deliver something of equivalent (or better) performance at a better price point for you. We searched the world far and wide (blah blah), found some sealant options and tested them. Testing was a fun and horrendously messy exercise. Fortunately, the mess wasn’t for nothing and now we have this wee gem of a product. So what’s different about this sealant? Just the price. Not the performance. Our supplier manufactures some of the best-known sealants in the industry. And even without that knowledge, our testing made it clear that this is a solid big-brand sealant alternative. This sealant happily seals gashes of 6mm and even sealed a 7.5mm gash. You can read more about our testing at the end of this description. Beyond price & performance, what makes us most excited about this product is that the small bottle sizes are freaking rad. The 150mL and 250mL bottles come with a snazzy nozzle that fits over your valve and allows you to directly inject sealant through your valve stem. But not just that, the nozzle also doubles as a valve core removal tool - very useful! Because the small bottles are so darn useful, we suggest always using a small bottle (150mL or 250mL) to top up the tyres. Top it up with a larger bottle. Sizes: We're offering numerous sizes of this product because each size has its own use case. 150mL: For the pack. In case your mates don't have enough sealant. Enough for 1x large mtb tyre or 2x gravel tyres250mL: For the glovebox. Enough for 2x large mtb tyres  500mL & 1L: 3-8 large mtb tyres because you'll change them at some point5L: Because you're a fan of buying things in bulk...? Expiration: Whilst the sealant does have a best-before date (2 years from manufacturing), in our experience with alternative brands, sealant kept in its bottle tends to last much longer unless the lid is open. Keep it closed!  Sealant volume chart: Further notes Ammonia free: So it won’t hurt your tyres and rims. Latex based: If you have an allergy, seriously reconsider it. Liquid sealants: Whilst this is a great sealant, the reality of liquid sealing is that there is a limited size of hole that you can physically seal. If you’ve got a gnarley tyre wound, your best bet would be to use a tyre plug too. That will sort it out. We offer decent tyre plugs here. How we tested it We tested a number of sealants with the following process: From initial online research, we found this bike radar article that said Stans Race sealant was the highest performing sealant on the market and could seal an 8mm hole with 2-3 tyre rotations. Well if that's the best, then that's what we'll test (against)! Here's what we found:  Taking slightly longer to seal a massive gash? We're sold! We're confident that you'll be sold too 😊

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Have you ever pumped your tyre up only to accidentally remove your valve core? How about wished you could remove the valve core to push out the tubeless gunk that's accumulated in your valve? Valve core hi-jinks are a reality of running tubeless tyres.  This alloy valve cap has an inbuilt presta valve remover so you can always remove your valve core. Slap it on your valve and you can tighten or loosen valve cores wherever you are. We end up using these most weeks we're riding, it would have been great to have these five years ago!  How to use: Remove valve stem cap Align the hole of the tool with your valve core Push the tool down onto your valve core until it sits snugly around the core Rotate the tool anti-clockwise to remove your valve core

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Smoove is our favourite chain lubricant. It is low friction, doesn't attract dust and lasts for ages. Smoove is self-cleansing, 100% biodegradable and solvent free. Smoove is a wax based lube and so the cleaner your chain is, the better is performs. If applied correctly, it lasts a long time. Other users quote getting up to 1000km on one application for road riding and 500km while mountain biking. This is certainly our own experience if we take care to apply it properly in the first place. Application procedure: The following procedure may seem a bit overkill but you only need to be so thorough once. The main factor which determines performance is how well you manage to remove oils on your chain. If you apply Smoove to a chain with normal lubes/oils/grease on it then you'll get average results. 1) Clean your chain rigorously. Use the strongest degreaser you can find - we put our chain in a glass jar full of petrol and shake it about for a while. Afterwards wash it off with hot water with detergent in it - especially if you use petrol, it leaves a film which needs to be removed. 2) Allow the chain the dry fully. Go for a quick pedal to get the initial moisture off and leave it outside for a while. 3) Apply Smoove to the inside of the chain while turning the pedals to ensure that the lube gets worked into the chain. Keep applying as a constant dribble until you see lube spanning/webbing the pins between every other link. This will likely feel like quite a bit of lube.4) Keep pedalling the chain backwards at least 30 times to ensure it's totally worked in. The goal here is to work the wax into the pin which is responsible for the majority of friction and wear in your chain. 5) Leave to dry for at least an hour. The best results are achieved when Smoove is applied the night before.6) Do not wipe your chain after application. Let it dry!  Next time you ride your drive-train should be quiet and feel fantastic. FAQ When should I re-apply Smoove?Don't reapply lube until your drive-train starts sounding 'dry'. When it sounds dry, apply lube over top again - and let it dry.  Do I have to clean my drive-train every time I apply Smoove?Nope. Only clean your drive-train when you think it needs a clean. Smoove doesn't attract dust so we get away with cleaning our chain very little over summer. We tend to clean our drive train after roughly 5 applications in dry riding conditions. Winter is a bit of a different story, but it is with every other lube too! Is there anything else I should keep in mind?Sometimes Smoove will accumulate on your chain ring, or jockey wheels, which can cause some chain suck. If you ever notice this use a flat headed screwdriver to remove the excess accumulated. My bottle jammed, what should I do?A downside of the great applicator of Smoove is that it can clog fairly easily. Easily fixed by inserting a paper-clip into the applicator :) 

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Here's 2m of 1.5mm Stainless Steel Brake Cable made by Jagwire. It is suitable for SRAM and Shimano setups. It's been pre-stretched, so it doesn't stretch as much for you, and it's surface has been smoothed to ensure your shifting is low friction. On top of that, it's stainless steel so it won't corrode. Also included is two cable end caps - just in case. You even get to choose what colour they are! :) We offer two types of brake cables Road and MTB. The difference between the two is the shape of cable head. Below is an image which you can use to decide which type you need. 

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Getting your fork serviced at a shop can be fairly darn expensive and can leave you without a bike for a while. Luckily, performing a fork lowers service (about 80% of fork services) yourself is pretty easy with a few cheap tools.  This seal driver can be used to install flangeless seals in your fork lowers. The driver shaft ensures the seal is installed straight and the outer lip ensures the seal is installed to the correct depth. We've included a a size on the top of the driver as well as a taper to make it as easy as possible to get the seal onto the driver.  These drivers are manufactured in-house. As a result of the manufacturing method we use, the surface has small ridges but they will not damage the fork seals.  Please note that when putting the seal onto the driver you need to remove the spring so that seal can flex over the driver. Once you've done that just push the seal up the driver until it's flush with the driving surface.

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Getting shops to bleed your brakes can be bloody expensive. Why not bleed them yourself? Here’s a bleed funnel for bleeding Shimano brakes. Before you finish your purchase, make sure you’ve got all the equipment to bleed your brakes. You'll need the following: A bleed kit or just a bleed funnel (if you’ve got the other tools hanging around)Some mineral oil, we offer either 250mL or 1LA bleed block   The choices you have are:Bleed funnel typePlastic bleed funnels are cheaper but the threads on them are easier to damage and tend to have a limited life. Funnels with the brass fitting won't get thread wear but are more expensive. Road adapterAn adapter to adapt the bled funnel to the larger diameter threads on the brake lever of Shimano drop bar brakes - think road/gravel - Shimano 105, Ultegra, GRX and so on. Essential if you need it.   

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for brakes which fit SRAM SMALL pads. This includes Sram Level (2 piston) and Avid Elixir. A list of brake models these pads are compatible with can be found in the compatibility tab above. We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads, a new local brand. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We are stoked to finally see a NZ brand offering good pads and trying to address the generally overpriced market for braking products, it’s something we can fully get on-board with. Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compatibility SRAM- Not compatible with non-AXS. Non-AXS use SRAM Road shape- SRAM Force eTap AXS- SRAM Red eTap AXS- SRAM Level, T, TL, TLM B1 from 2020 model, Ultimate B1 from 2020 model- SRAM DB (all models) Avid Elixir 1, 3, 5, XX, XO  (Not the trail models) Trickstuff- Piccola- C21- Piccola Carbon- C22- CLEG 2 Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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Got a brake which needs shortening? You'll need to get yourself an Olive & Connector to put the brake hose back into your brake lever. There are two types of olive & hose inserts: Standard:These olives and inserts fit all standard size avid/SRAM hoses, but won't work on the newest models. These fit all old avid brakes and older models of SRAM brakes. These WILL NOT fit brakes with Stealth-A-Majig fittings. You can identify Stealth-A-Majig fitting brakes by thoroughly looking over the lever and seeing if it says "Stealth-A-Majig" somewhere, if not this is your best bet. They are not backwards compatible. Stealthmajig:Stealthmajig compatible Olive and hose inserts are required for Stealthmajig type lever brakes. They can also be used on older Avid and Sram brakes. Whilst they are more expensive, their advantage lays in re-usability and ease of use. A T8 torx wrench is required to screw this in. If you are cutting your brake hose it's worth having a hose clamp to help out. You can grab one here.

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Having issues with some of your brake pistons not moving properly? If so, you could be leaving significant brake performance on the table. Luckily, it’s a fairly simple thing to fix if you’ve got the right tool. Here's a tool that can be used on a variety of 2 and 4 piston brakes. The tool constrains all but 1 of the pistons so you can get the stuck piston moving with ease. Just drop the tool into your brake, pull the brake lever and hey presto, the stuck piston will move. Clean the piston with a cotton bud and gently press the piston back into the brake caliper with your tyre lever. If you want to clean them all, push them all back with your tyre lever and do them one at a time. Put simply, this tool makes it easy to advance a brake piston as far as possible without popping it completely out of the caliper. This allows for as much of the piston to be cleaned as possible, which helps you maximise your braking performance. The tool looks a bit odd, but between rotating and flipping the tool you can extend any brake piston. It also has a chamfer on the leading edges which makes it easier to insert in your brake caliper. We promise that the tool doesn't look nearly as bad as the product image, we just have been without photography resources recently and wanted to list it anyway. Cleaning procedure: Carefully push all pistons back into the caliper using a tyre lever Insert this tool. Put the retaining pin through the tool and caliper to keep it in place Pump the brake and watch that the piston on the side of the tool with the cutout extends Stop once the piston hits the tool - feel free to grab the brake lever a few times Remove the tool Clean the sides of the piston - we use isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs Push the piston back into the caliper with your tyre lever Repeat with other pistons Optional - apply a droplet of brake oil to the piston surface before pushing it back in. Only do this if you are going to douse the caliper with alcohol to clean it after the procedure, you don't want any rogue fluid hanging around! While it is possible to perform this job on 2 piston brakes by carefully constraining 1 piston with a plastic tyre lever and pulling the brake lever, this tool makes it a whole lot easier and ensures you don’t pop the piston right out of the caliper. Compatibility: Shimano 4 Piston - This tool works on all Shimano 4 piston calipers and will probably work on any other brake that can accept this brake pad type Sram Guide - Works for all Sram Guide brakes except for Guide RE - they use the Sram Code tool. The brake pad type looks like this. Sram Code - Works on Sram code and Sram Guide RE brake calipers. The brake pad type looks like this. Shimano 2 Piston (not road) & Tektro - Works on all non-road/gravel shimano 2 piston mountain bike brake calipers as well as other brakes using either this pad type or this pad type. Another common brake type this works for is tektro 2 piston brakes Shimano Road - works on Shimano road and gravel brake calipers - or any brake using this pad type Sram Level and Elixer - Works on any brake using this style of pad, as long as the brake pads can be inserted from the top. Here's roughly what the tool will look like when being used Park tool has this video available which explains the process without using this tool on 2 piston brakes. It's the same procedure for 4 piston brakes, just use this tool.

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Needing DOT 5.1 fluid to bleed your brakes? This will do the trick! It costs about half as much as SRAM fluid and, as with anything Liqui Moly, it's great quality stuff! The shelf life of DOT 5.1 is 12 months from the date of opening. In reality you can get more out of it if you would like to. Please ignore the cheeky "expiry" date printed on the bottle by the manufacturer, this seems disingenuous to us. 

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Air can service kits for fox float shocks from 2006 onwards. They contain all of the parts you require for an aircan service. These seals have reduced friction on the stock kits, we have been impressed. Compatibility: Float X (2022+): For model year 2022 onward Fox Float X shocks Standard: For all standard type fox float shocks from 2006 onwards except for: - EVOL (Extra Volume) models, year 2023 onwards- Float X model years, 2023 onwards - Float X2 Lubrication The only other thing you need is a quality assembly grease/seal lubricant. Traditionally, Fox float fluid is recommended, but we prefer to use Slickoleum.  

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Pedros tyre levers are by far our favourite tyre levers. They are strong, shaped well and seem to get the job done when other levers have problems. Here's a pair, because we care.  We don't think there's much of a contest, Pedros tyre levers really are some of (if not the) best tyre levers on the market. Here's the breakdown of reviews that google has aggregated (as of 24-08-21, 12pm):

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