We always carry a few spare valve cores, you never know when you might need them! It's good to be able to replace tubeless gunked or bent valves, at least for us it is :)

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A handy dandy device for measuring and injecting fluids. There's a few sizes to choose from. Useful for whatever you want to do with it... Here's some examples of what we use these for: Injecting tubeless sealant into our wheels through our valve stem so we don't get it everywhere Measuring out fork fluid - use an injector instead of your old graduated cup Spraying a jet of water at our partner just to be a nuisance Please note: The rubber seals on these require lubrication to move smoothly. If your syringe becomes a bit tired, try taking the plunger out and lubricating the seal with whatever fluid you are using. Put it back into the outer and it should be good!

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This mighty adapter will allow you to use a schrader pump to inflate your presta valve tyres. Extremely useful to have in the glove-box so you can pump your tyres up at petrol stations, which we do quite regularly. A must have for every mountain-bikers car. Often your pump isn't strong enough to seat tubeless tyres but those petrol station pumps generally do a great job! :)   

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A key factor in setting your wheels up tubeless is having a good quality rim tape. We have always been bothered by the price of rim tape so we decided to import some ourselves. We approached a number of manufacturers and tested their products. After lots of taped wheels, a few beers and plenty of discussion, we decided on this model. We are very happy with it. Tape features: Sticks and seals well Conforms well to the rim Not too little stretch, not too much - The goldilocks amount Hard to tear 10m long - will tape up to 4 x 29" wheels (with 19cm overlap). Please note, if you use more than 19cm overlap your last wheel may not have enough tape 😅 What about sealant?We offer a good quality, and rather cost-effective, tubeless tyre sealant in a number of sizes here. What width to use?To get a great seal it's best to use rim tape which is slightly wider than your rim. Applying good tension to the tape as you apply it will allow the extra width of tape to get inside the rim without any hassle. For narrow rims (around 20mm internal width), using a rim tape which is 2-4mm wider than your rim is ideal. For wide rims (40mm+ internal width) using a tape that is 3-6mm wider than your rim is ideal.  Our GuaranteeWe think this tape works rather well. If you purchase it and disagree, we will refund you. Just let us know and we can arrange a return of the product and a refund. Pro TipOne of the most common causes of tubeless air leaks is due to poor tape cutting when inserting tubeless valves. Instead of cutting the tape, try heating the top of your tubeless valve with a lighter and then push it through. A note on adhesionMany of us would like rim tape to stick to the rim from the adhesive alone. It feels great if it does this (often it doesn't, rims are rather slippery) but be careful to make sure you have applied strong tension to the tape. It's the tension that creates the seal, not the adhesion. 

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After a couple of years selling a decent sealant, we decided it was time to see if we could deliver something of equivalent (or better) performance at a better price point for you. We searched the world far and wide (blah blah), found some sealant options and tested them. Testing was a fun and horrendously messy exercise. Fortunately, the mess wasn’t for nothing and now we have this wee gem of a product. So what’s different about this sealant? Just the price. Not the performance. Our supplier manufactures some of the best-known sealants in the industry. And even without that knowledge, our testing made it clear that this is a solid big-brand sealant alternative. This sealant happily seals gashes of 6mm and even sealed a 7.5mm gash. You can read more about our testing at the end of this description. Beyond price & performance, what makes us most excited about this product is that the small bottle sizes are freaking rad. The 150mL and 250mL bottles come with a snazzy nozzle that fits over your valve and allows you to directly inject sealant through your valve stem. But not just that, the nozzle also doubles as a valve core removal tool - very useful! Because the small bottles are so darn useful, we suggest always using a small bottle (150mL or 250mL) to top up the tyres. Top it up with a larger bottle. Sizes: We're offering numerous sizes of this product because each size has its own use case. 150mL: For the pack. In case your mates don't have enough sealant. Enough for 1x large mtb tyre or 2x gravel tyres250mL: For the glovebox. Enough for 2x large mtb tyres  500mL & 1L: 3-8 large mtb tyres because you'll change them at some point5L: Because you're a fan of buying things in bulk...? Expiration: Whilst the sealant does have a best-before date (2 years from manufacturing), in our experience with alternative brands, sealant kept in its bottle tends to last much longer unless the lid is open. Keep it closed!  Sealant volume chart: Further notes Ammonia free: So it won’t hurt your tyres and rims. Latex based: If you have an allergy, seriously reconsider it. Liquid sealants: Whilst this is a great sealant, the reality of liquid sealing is that there is a limited size of hole that you can physically seal. If you’ve got a gnarley tyre wound, your best bet would be to use a tyre plug too. That will sort it out. We offer decent tyre plugs here. How we tested it We tested a number of sealants with the following process: From initial online research, we found this bike radar article that said Stans Race sealant was the highest performing sealant on the market and could seal an 8mm hole with 2-3 tyre rotations. Well if that's the best, then that's what we'll test (against)! Here's what we found:  Taking slightly longer to seal a massive gash? We're sold! We're confident that you'll be sold too 😊

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Have you ever pumped your tyre up only to accidentally remove your valve core? How about wished you could remove the valve core to push out the tubeless gunk that's accumulated in your valve? Valve core hi-jinks are a reality of running tubeless tyres.  This alloy valve cap has an inbuilt presta valve remover so you can always remove your valve core. Slap it on your valve and you can tighten or loosen valve cores wherever you are. We end up using these most weeks we're riding, it would have been great to have these five years ago!  How to use: Remove valve stem cap Align the hole of the tool with your valve core Push the tool down onto your valve core until it sits snugly around the core Rotate the tool anti-clockwise to remove your valve core

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Pedros tyre levers are by far our favourite tyre levers. They are strong, shaped well and seem to get the job done when other levers have problems. Here's a pair, because we care.  We don't think there's much of a contest, Pedros tyre levers really are some of (if not the) best tyre levers on the market. Here's the breakdown of reviews that google has aggregated (as of 24-08-21, 12pm):

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You're looking at a mighty tubeless valve. It seals well to the rim and, since it's a presta valve, it has a removable core so that you can clean it when its inevitably become blocked by overambitious tyre sealant. At 46mm long it fits even reasonably deep carbon mtb rims. Not only a decent valve, it can be used with tyre inserts because of it's t-shaped air passages. It also has a hex slot at the base also allows you to hold the valve still, just in case you ever need to (valves can get rather slippery). We're not quite sure why other valves, like Cushcore ones, retail for $50 plus per pair - it seems a bit steep.  Note: This is one valve, if you want to purchase a pair you will need to purchase two... Math 🤓

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Tubeless inserts reduce wheel damage and improve the feel of your bike. For a long time Cushcore ruled the insert market and none of the cheaper options had decent performance, but Rimpact has changed that. Rimpact are simply a well-performing product at a better price-point than the alternatives. This listing is for a set (two) of inserts with valves. Please consult the rim width diagram at the end of this listing to determine whether this particular product is appropriate for your bike. Rimpact Tubeless Inserts help in the following ways: They minimise the impact force on your rim. We’ve had far less rim dings since riding them. They help stabilise your tyre sidewall. The level of stabilisation will depend on the combination of rim and tyre that you are running. They reduce trail chatter. The extent to which they do this surprised us but it was very welcome 😊 They reduce the chances of damaging your tyre. In late 2022 Rimpact released an update to their inserts (hence V2) which changed the shape slightly to better fit modern rims. They also released some new insert models. We carry all Rimpact models and sell combinations of them so you can mix and match to get your ideal setup. If you're curious about other Rimpact models you can see all of our listings here. Original, and gravel/xc, inserts are made of a single type of foam and provide great performance at a great price point. We ran Original inserts very happily for 6 months at the Christchurch Adventure Park and were very happy with their performance. Pro, and cx, inserts are made from a dual-density foam which provides even more rim protection, tyre stability and tyre damage prevention than the original inserts. EDH inserts also have a dual compound like the PRO model but the outer layer is even more supportive and protective. This is the highest protection model and is best suited for serious downhill riders and for heavy e-bikes. Note that installing the EDH in a 2.4” tyre is quite a strength and patience requiring process. If you’d like to purchase a different model of Rimpact inserts / a combination of them check out our range here. Our experience using RimpactAfter a number of years on Rimpact on our gravity bikes we’ve found our favourite front insert to be the Original model because it has the best vibration damping characteristics and lowest weight. On the rear we prefer the heaviest duty model we can afford/be bothered installing, whether that be a Pro or EDH model. We’ve not tried the XC/Gravel model but have been running the CX model for years. We’ve been impressed by how much smoother it makes our gravel bikes ride and blown away by how much traction we can get at cyclocross races when we drop the tyre pressures to 25psi (and don’t have any issues!). Model Information  Model Size Weight per insert (grams) CX 700C 55 Gravel / XC 29" / 700C  70 27.5" 60 Original V2 29"  110 27.5" 100 Pro 29"  160 27.5" 150 EDH 29" 180 27.5" 170 ​  Notes A note about sealant: Tyre inserts will significantly increase the surface area inside your tyre so we suggest using 30% or so extra sealant than you would usually.If you've got this far, we may also have some clearance stock of old V1 rimpact models. It would be worth having a look as they will be at a discount.  

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Behind brake pads, tyres are among the most frequently replaced parts of your bike. But with the price of many of decent tyres hitting $130+, it’s getting quite painful replacing them. This seems to be a bit of a talking point on the trail, is a decently priced tyre with reasonable performance too much to ask? Well, we've been stoked to discover that there is finally a brand that's trying to address this: American Classic. The American Classic Basanite MTB tyre is a 2.4" wide tubeless tyre which performs best on the rear wheel. It has a tread pattern that is reminiscent of a Maxxis minion dhr 2 tyre, and the enduro casing is most similar to a Maxxis double down casing. The Basanite has the following features: Chunky (stable) cornering lugs that provide great cornering bite An alternating center lug pattern which provides good traction during braking and pedalling  Ramped central knobs which improve rolling speed. On the other side they're vertical which means good braking A medium tread spacing gives decent traction in all conditions. We've been impressed with how well it clears mud. A sturdy 120TPI casing for puncture protection American classic suggests running the Tectonite up front and the Basanite in the rear and we tend to agree. This is a combo that performs well on hard pack and well enough when it's loose. The vulcanite might be a better tyre for you if you're consistently riding loose conditions or want a mud tyre, particularly for race days. Give it a go and let us know what you think 😊 Notes We only sell the enduro casing version of this tyre. Whilst the trail casing is lighter it's undoubtedly more susceptible to punctures. Let us know if you'd to order a trail casing version and we're happy to order it in for you. As with all tubeless tyres, these can sometimes be a challenge to get on. We recommend spraying the tyre and rim with some soapy water for lubrication. When things get tight, work your way around the tire, pushing it into the central race to gain those extra millimeters needed to get the tire onto the rim. Installation approach is particularly important if you are installing the tyre with inserts. Also, please install in a warm environment, having cold hands when doing this task simply sucks. Comparison of American Classic tyre models:​  

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