Here's 2m of 1.1mm Stainless Steel Shift Cable made by Jagwire. It is suitable for SRAM and Shimano setups. It's been pre-stretched, so it doesn't stretch as much for you, and it's surface has been smoothed to ensure your shifting is low friction. On top of that, it's stainless steel so it won't corrode. Also included is two cable end caps - just in case. You even get to choose what colour they are! :)

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Here's some Jagwire 4mm Slick-lube gear housing, suitable for SRAM and Shimano setups. In the centre is a long lasting slick lubricant that reduces shifting friction and reduces water penetration. Encompassing that are strands of wire which reduce the chance of the housing kinking and messing up your shifting. All of this makes for a low friction and long lasting gear housing! We sell this in 2m and 10m lengths. 2m will do a long cable for all non-tandem bikes (except extra extra extra long bikes). 10m is slightly cheaper per metre, but you also get much better usage of cable (less wastage, so even cheaper again). And to top it off, we include some ferrules for your cable. If you need some more ferrules, have a look here. Offcuts: The 50 metre rolls we purchase aren't quite 50 metres after all... Instead of binning the small bit at the end, we offer it for you to purchase. We don't stock these lengths as standard, it's only if a bit is cut off. A 1-1.5m offcut will be somewhere between 1m and 1.5m long, the same is true for other lengths of offcuts. Please don't email us asking when we will have offcuts in stock next 😅 Other notes: Gear housing comes in 4mm and 5mm diameters. You can use either as long as you use the right ferrules! This cable is 4mm in diameter since it is most common Your housing may need a few days to relax after being opened, it may have been stored in a circle for a while...

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Replacing chains regularly is the best way to ensure a long life from your drive-train. This Chain Wear Indicator will help tell you what your chain wear is, so you know when to replace it.  Usage instructionsPlace the wide end into a link on your chain and gently try push the other in. If the chain slips into the 1% gap then your chain has more than 1% wear. If the chain fits into the 0.75% gap but not the 1% gap, it has between 0.75% and 1% wear. To get a long life out of your drive-train, your chain should be replaced once it has a wear of between 0.75% and 1.0%. If your chain is at 1% or more it should be replaced immediately, otherwise you risk massively reducing the life of your drive-train.

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Here's 2m of 1.5mm Stainless Steel Brake Cable made by Jagwire. It is suitable for SRAM and Shimano setups. It's been pre-stretched, so it doesn't stretch as much for you, and it's surface has been smoothed to ensure your shifting is low friction. On top of that, it's stainless steel so it won't corrode. Also included is two cable end caps - just in case. You even get to choose what colour they are! :) We offer two types of brake cables Road and MTB. The difference between the two is the shape of cable head. Below is an image which you can use to decide which type you need. 

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The most effective way of reducing noise on your bike is to reduce chain-slap. STFU Bike was developed with Chris Kovarik (a.k.a. Karver) and is the best product on the market for this job. Included in the product are two adjustable Drivetrain Damping modules that mount to your swingarm. When your chain is installed through STFU it is encased in muted rubber - chain-slap still happens it just causes much less noise. Important note: When you install this product ensure the cable tie is pulled quite tight using pliers. Re-tighten the cable ties after every second ride for the first 10 rides as they tend to stretch. If the cable ties stretch too much the product can rotate and go through your spokes which will cause significant damage to it (but your wheel will be fine). Compatibility: Trail - Suits bikes with 1x gearing (single chain ring)  and 9 - 13 speed with up to a 52 tooth cassette DH 7 Speed - Suits 7 speed downhill bikes with up to a 26 tooth cassette DH 10 Speed - Designed around 10 speed shimano style downhill drive-train with up to a 32 tooth cassette. Suitable for 8-12 speed Installation:Instructions on how to install STFU Bike can be found on the STFU Bike website.

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Rock that custom colour scheme with 1.8mm cable end caps in a variety of colours 😊

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Sometimes it feels like the primary purpose of chains is to slap your chainstay... They wreck your paint and make a hell of a racket! Apply this tape to your bike to reduce the damage done and quieten sounds made while you ride. These seem to do a much better job than plastic frame protectors! This tape is thick, moisture sealing and flame retardant - just in case you shred too hard. Each strip is 25mm wide and comes in whatever length you order. 50cm is plenty enough to apply to a chainstay. Make sure you measure up before purchasing so you know how much you need :)

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Cable outer end caps are useful for interfacing your outers/housings with your brakes, shifters or derailleurs. We sell two different types: Gear (Plastic) and Brake (Alloy). Both types are great quality products which are manufactured by Jagwire. Both are sold as singles or a ten pack. Gear The end caps we sell for gear/shift housing fit standard housing of 4mm outer diameter. Gear ferrules experience low forces so you can get away with plastic ones without issue, you may as well save the money. BrakeThe end caps we sell for brake housing fit standard cable housing of 5mm outer diameter. We only sell brass (metal) brake ferrules because they experience high forces and must be robust.

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  Chains can take a real hammering while you ride and sometimes they break. It's worth carrying a spare quick link so you can sort yourself, or a friend, out when this happens. KMC Missing Links compatible with the equivalent SRAM and Shimano chains.  Here's a KMC Missing Link for 9 Speed chains. This link is re-usable but KMC recommends that you reconnect it no more than 5 times.  Some riders even swear by carrying two of them :)

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Ever ridden chainless down a trail? If so, you would have noticed how much better your suspension felt. If you've not done it, we suggest you give it a go. It's quite striking how much more sensitive your suspension feels without making any changes to the shock itself. But obviously, there's a downside to riding chainless: you've got a bike you can't pedal anywhere... The Rimpact Chain Dampener is a product that allows you to get that same chainless suspension performance while still allowing you to pedal your bike. Below we've included an explanation about how the product works as well as our own experience with the product. This is such a long description because this product category, along with the Ochain competitor product, has created a bit of controversy in the riding community. There seems to be a bit of doubt about whether this is snake oil or not, we can assure you that it is not. How it works The chain negatively impacts suspension performance in 2 ways: Chain growth: As you compress a bikes suspension the rear wheel moves away from the pedals. As this happens, the distance between your casette and chainring increases which pulls your chain backwards. Your pedal stance naturally opposes this motion which adds resistance to the movement of the rear suspension. The downsides here are two-fold: 1) more resistance stops your suspension from compressing as easily and 2) you strongly feel that through your feet as ‘pedal kickback’ as your feet experiencing a significant feedback force which makes your suspension feel harsh. Without a chain your suspension just compresses and you don't experience this feedback force. High pivot bikes do help mitigate this issue. Chain flap: The faster you ride, the harder your chain flings about - we're sure you hear it. That's more chain growth, it’s just in the opposite direction (think about how much chain is below vs above your cogs). As the chain flaps about it pulls on the chainring and cassette, creating more of the same problem above. Essentially, your chain fairly violently pulls your cranks back and forth in a way that makes your bike feel harsh to ride. So how does this chain damper help? Well, it rotates with the chain. 4° of forwards rotation helps with chain flap and 8.6° backwards of backwards rotation allows the rear suspension to compress without being limited by chain growth. Jonos experience As of December 16, I (Jono) have been riding with a Rimpact Chain Dampener for about 8 weeks. When I installed the product, the difference to the feel of my suspension was pretty clear. The most obvious thing to me is that fast chattery bumps at the Christchurch Adventure Park now almost feel "smooth" on my feet. I have very flat feet, ride flat pedals and my foot arches tend to get quite worn out when riding, especially when I'm not well conditioned. I've found the Chain Dampener to significantly reduce the load that's been going through my feet, and I'm feeling fresher for much longer. It’s allowing me to do more laps in a day than I usually would be comfortable doing. I'm now in the firmly sold camp. The Chain Dampener significantly improves the comfort of my bike in choppy terrain and it helps me ride harder for longer. It's also clear that my bike has more traction when I'm cornering over choppy terrain where there isn't supportive berms to hold my hand. FAQ Can I just use a hub with less points of engagement (POE)? Yes and no. A low POE hub won’t absorb chain flap forces. It can help somewhat (10-20% as effective as this) with the chain growth issue, but even that will be inconsistent. If your hub happens to be in a position where it needs to rotate a reasonable amount before engaging than sure, the suspension will be able to compress unhindered until the hub engages. But if the hub is about to engage then it wont help at all. Unlike a low POE hub, the chain damper will always show up for work. Isn’t this the same as Ochain? You may have seen a similar product, Ochain, being used by many worldcup DH racers over the last couple of seasons. While O chain is similar, it doesn’t rotate forwards, and therefore doesn't isolate the suspension from chain flap forces. What about the ethirteen sidekick hub? Good question. We’ve not tried one but it looks pretty promising. We suspect that it might not deal with chain flap as well as this product. Beyond our suspicions though, to use that hub you’re going to have fork out a lot more money for the hub ($750 at the time of writing) and then have to entirely re-build a wheel. And as to the longevity of those hubs, we have no idea. We’re firmly in the camp that a crank mounted solution will win out in the long term. Are other chain ring sizes available? It is necessary to use a specific rimpact chainring. We will have more sizes and replacements soon! Does it feel weird to pedal? Yes, a bit. The pedals rotate a bit before the chain engages. Once it's engaged it feels normal until you take pressure off. If you're the kind of person that prioritises hyper-technical climbing then this might be an issue for you. For the rest of us, it's not an issue. Does it work on a hardtail? Absolutely. Chain flap causes a lot of the force you need to resist through your pedals.  Chainless memories Remember the time that Aaron Gwin won a world cup chainless? 😅 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMJTnB-50zE

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When you back-pedal an e-bike, the chain doesn’t move. This makes lubing the chain rather tricky… But this is easily addressed with this product. This tool creates a direct link between the crank and chain-ring so when you backpedal, the chain moves - making it as easy to lube as an analog bike. Personally, our favourite lube is Smoove, which works wonderfully for both e-bikes and regular bikes. Why not just use an allen key? This tool is easy to remove and can't break your drivetrain. Yep, that's possible - have a look at one of the photos customers have sent us about this: That is indeed a sticky situation. Product video

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Replacement chain ring for Rimpact Chain Damper

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