Sometimes it feels like the primary purpose of chains is to slap your chainstay... They wreck your paint and make a hell of a racket! The STFU Stay Guard is here to help with this issue. The Stay Guard is a low-profile protector that uses a tapered fin design to (much more silently) absorb chain slaps. Sticky as hell, it’s best applied to the top or bottom of your chain stays. Really keen to get rid of all noises? Consider using it on the bottom of your chain stay and pairing it with an STFU Bike Drivetrain Damper on top. At 400mm long (56mm wide x 12mm high), it’s long enough to cover the top of your chain stay, part of your seat stay and even a section of the bottom of your chain stay. You might even have some spare to give a mate whos bike needs a chill pill. In our opinion, this product is more effective than Marsh Guard slapper tape and comparable to VHS MTB tape. It is certainly more effective than the hard plastic chainstay protectors that come on many bikes and do very little to tone down the racket! Whilst this product does stick to your frame well, if your heel rubs your chainstay we recommend adding a zip tie (or two) to ensure it stays stuck on there in the long term.

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for brakes which fit SRAM EXTRA LARGE pads. This includes Sram Maven brakes. A list of brake models these pads are compatible with can be found in the compatibility tab above. We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads, a new local brand. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We are stoked to finally see a NZ brand offering good pads and trying to address the generally overpriced market for braking products, it’s something we can fully get on-board with. Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compatibility - All SRAM Maven brakes Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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Sometimes you just need to space a brake rotor outwards. These disc brake shims install between the rotor and centerlock disc brake hub allowing you to fine-tune the alignment of the braking surface. Shims are also commonly used when swapping between different wheelsets, so that you don't have to re-align the caliper on the frame. This shim is 0.2mm thick.

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Your sweat contains electrolytes. If you drink a bunch of water and don't replace those electrolytes you could experience an electrolyte imbalance. In our own experiences, electrolyte imbalances can make us feel dumb, fatigued, crampy, headachey and that's not to mention the physical performance left on the table. The Science in Sport hydration tablets are the best bet in the NZ market for a good,and reasonably priced electrolyte product. They've got the right macronutrients and, at the time of writing (06-12-23), cost $16 for 20 tablets compared to $15 for 10 tablets of nuun and $16 for 12 tablets of GU.  Why get tablets instead of a powder? Both work of course but we love being able to take a pack of tablets in our pocket and drop them into our bottles easily. We've been that friend who stops to get out a bag of powder, a scoop and ends up making a mess everywhere... We never want to be that friend again. This product was demanded by Jono because he's a sweaty fella who seems to live on elecrolytes.

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Fan of DMR Deathgrips? Why not bling them out with some custom collars? Not compatible with deathgrip 2.

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We've been using Fabric Gnurl Gravel tape for a few years now and we're fans. We decided to see whether we could source a "similar" tape and here it is. We're not sure that we can tell the difference. Features: 3.5mm foam-backed for maximal vibration damping on-road and off-road Non-slip knurled texture which is grippy in all weather Includes 2x bar plugs Length: 200cm. If you're on extra-wide drop bars it should be enough but you may not be able to run a large overlap It's also very similar to BBB GravelRibbon gel bar tape. You can read a review about this tape here.  Alloy bar plugs: If you'd like an extra clean bar plug, which is more durable and less likely to come out when crashing, consider adding a couple of alloy bar plugs. They should last the life of the bike, use them each time you re-tape.  Performance Guarantee Put simply, this bar tape is solid. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.

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Removing or installing Shimano Cranks? You’ll most likely need one of these.  If removing cranks, loosen the two pinch bolts and then use this tool to unscrew the plastic preload screw so you can take the cranks off.  If fitting cranks, tighten the preload screw using this tool and then tighten the two crank bolts. Be careful to nip the preload screw up somewhat gently, that’s why this tool doesn’t have anywhere to grip with a spanner/allen key.

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Are you a fan of Frictive products? Do you feel like becoming a low-key mobile billboard whilst looking casual and stylish? Grab a Frictive tee, wear it out on the trail and help spread the word! SPECIFICATIONS GARMENT: As Colour 5001 Staple Tee FIT: Regular MATERIAL: 100% Cotton SIZING: CLICK TO VIEW

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These tugs are specifically designed to keep your axle in place within your horizontal dropout frame. They are also adjustable from side to side at the point of contact with the dropout, ensuring that they remain perfectly square.

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There are two types of pins available for DMR Vault pedals: Flip pins and King pins. Flip pins are the standard pins on Vault pedals. King pins are the longest pin available, 1.5mm longer than flip pins.Spefications:44 x steel DMR pins (enough for a pair of pedals)16 x short pins (for use in the centre section of pedals)28 x long pins (for use on the outside edge of pedals)2mm allen Wrench included

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Behind brake pads, tyres are among the most frequently replaced parts of your bike. But with the price of many of decent tyres hitting $130+, it’s getting quite painful replacing them. This seems to be a bit of a talking point on the trail, is a decently priced tyre with reasonable performance too much to ask? Well, we've been stoked to discover that there is finally a brand that's trying to address this: American Classic. The American Classic Vulcanite MTB tyre is a 2.5" wide tubeless tyre which performs best when conditions are loose. Think dust, mud and softer packed soil. It has a tread pattern that is reminiscent of a Maxxis Shorty and the enduro casing is most similar to a Maxxis double down casing. The Basanite has the following features: Chunky (stable) cornering lugs that provide great cornering bite Widely spaced central knobs to increase mud shedding. A sturdy 120TPI casing for puncture protection If you're riding in dirt with any level of softness, this tyre will give you more traction than the Tectonite and Basanite. It won't however perform as well as those on hardpack. The writer of this description would run them on wet or dusty race days but for general riding they're quite happy to have a bit more slide happening at the rear. As usual, it's up to you to pick your poison. Give it a go and let us know what you think 😊 Notes We only sell the enduro casing version of this tyre. Whilst the trail casing is lighter it's undoubtedly more susceptible to punctures. Let us know if you'd to order a trail casing version and we're happy to order it in for you. As with all tubeless tyres, these can sometimes be a challenge to get on. We recommend spraying the tyre and rim with some soapy water for lubrication. When things get tight, work your way around the tire, pushing it into the central race to gain those extra millimeters needed to get the tire onto the rim. Installation approach is particularly important if you are installing the tyre with inserts. Also, please install in a warm environment, having cold hands when doing this task simply sucks. Comparison of American Classic tyre models:​  

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