If you have removed the crank bolt, yet the cranks are still stuck on your bike, there may be a female thread on the crank in the area you have removed the crank from (see realistically clean photo below). If that’s the case, you’ll need one of these bad boys.  The end of this tool has a removable head allowing the tool to be compatible with any type of crank. Thread the tool into the crank and then turn the chrome (shiny) part of the tool using a 15mm spanner.

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for brakes which fit Shimano XT BR-M755 brake pads. The equivalent Shimano pad models are M03 and M04. A list of brake models these pads are compatible with can be found on the tab above.  We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads and these were a close second. Where Frictive doesn’t offer a pad shape we’ve decided to offer these - just to provide a wider range for older and less common brake models. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We named these pads GPVN which stands for "Great Price, Very Nice" - a name which really amuses us. Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compatibility Shimano: XT BR-M755 to 756 to 2003 Trickstuff - Direttissima - C41 - Piccola HD - Piccola HD Carbon - CLEG 4 Hope: - Mono M4 - Tech M4 - Stealth Race E4 - Tech 3 E4 Grimeca: System 8 Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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Grease is a critical part of bike maintenance, but many bicycle grease guns are pretty average. We've had a Finishline grease gun for several years and it regularly suffers from a loss of pressure as well as leaking grease out of the plunger handle. So after throwing an adult tantrum, we went down a rabbit hole to find an alternative. This grease gun is the culmination of that rabbit hole. It's stout, it's silvery and we think that it's sexy. But more importantly, it's precise, consistent and easy to operate with one hand. It's quite similar to the Park Tool GG-1 Grease Gun and the Motorex Grease Gun.  The only thing we don't like about this gun is that you're committed to one type of grease per gun. Though it's a worthy tradeoff in our opinion. Set it and forget it. Features: 80mL volume The nozzle shape allows direct injection into grease nipples directly Filling instructions: Unscrew the top of the grease gun to open the barrel Add grease to the barrel. As you do so, tamp it down to remove air pockets. Continue filling until the barrel is completely full. Screw the top back on and tighten it Using a screwdriver, gently push the plunger up from the bottom until you can't push it further very easily. Skip this step at your own peril Tighten the top fully Prime the gun by pumping the handle to draw grease through the nozzle. Point the nozzle somewhere that can get messy. Do this until grease is coming through the gun consistently Done! Here's a video of this if you are curious: Recommended grease:We recommend using Parktool PolyLube 1000 as your general purpose grease. Unfortunately we are unable to sell this product but you should be able to find it fairly easily and cheaply locally. 

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Sometimes it feels like the primary purpose of chains is to slap your chainstay... They wreck your paint and make a hell of a racket! The STFU Stay Guard is here to help with this issue. The Stay Guard is a low-profile protector that uses a tapered fin design to (much more silently) absorb chain slaps. Sticky as hell, it’s best applied to the top or bottom of your chain stays. Really keen to get rid of all noises? Consider using it on the bottom of your chain stay and pairing it with an STFU Bike Drivetrain Damper on top. At 400mm long (56mm wide x 12mm high), it’s long enough to cover the top of your chain stay, part of your seat stay and even a section of the bottom of your chain stay. You might even have some spare to give a mate whos bike needs a chill pill. In our opinion, this product is more effective than Marsh Guard slapper tape and comparable to VHS MTB tape. It is certainly more effective than the hard plastic chainstay protectors that come on many bikes and do very little to tone down the racket! Whilst this product does stick to your frame well, if your heel rubs your chainstay we recommend adding a zip tie (or two) to ensure it stays stuck on there in the long term.

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for brakes which fit SRAM EXTRA LARGE pads. This includes Sram Maven brakes. A list of brake models these pads are compatible with can be found in the compatibility tab above. We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads, a new local brand. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We are stoked to finally see a NZ brand offering good pads and trying to address the generally overpriced market for braking products, it’s something we can fully get on-board with. Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compatibility - All SRAM Maven brakes Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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Sometimes you just need to space a brake rotor outwards. These disc brake shims install between the rotor and centerlock disc brake hub allowing you to fine-tune the alignment of the braking surface. Shims are also commonly used when swapping between different wheelsets, so that you don't have to re-align the caliper on the frame. This shim is 0.2mm thick.

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Your sweat contains electrolytes. If you drink a bunch of water and don't replace those electrolytes you could experience an electrolyte imbalance. In our own experiences, electrolyte imbalances can make us feel dumb, fatigued, crampy, headachey and that's not to mention the physical performance left on the table. The Science in Sport hydration tablets are the best bet in the NZ market for a good,and reasonably priced electrolyte product. They've got the right macronutrients and, at the time of writing (06-12-23), cost $16 for 20 tablets compared to $15 for 10 tablets of nuun and $16 for 12 tablets of GU.  Why get tablets instead of a powder? Both work of course but we love being able to take a pack of tablets in our pocket and drop them into our bottles easily. We've been that friend who stops to get out a bag of powder, a scoop and ends up making a mess everywhere... We never want to be that friend again. This product was demanded by Jono because he's a sweaty fella who seems to live on elecrolytes.

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Fan of DMR Deathgrips? Why not bling them out with some custom collars? Not compatible with deathgrip 2.

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We've been using Fabric Gnurl Gravel tape for a few years now and we're fans. We decided to see whether we could source a "similar" tape and here it is. We're not sure that we can tell the difference. Features: 3.5mm foam-backed for maximal vibration damping on-road and off-road Non-slip knurled texture which is grippy in all weather Includes 2x bar plugs Length: 200cm. If you're on extra-wide drop bars it should be enough but you may not be able to run a large overlap It's also very similar to BBB GravelRibbon gel bar tape. You can read a review about this tape here.  Alloy bar plugs: If you'd like an extra clean bar plug, which is more durable and less likely to come out when crashing, consider adding a couple of alloy bar plugs. They should last the life of the bike, use them each time you re-tape.  Performance Guarantee Put simply, this bar tape is solid. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.

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Removing or installing Shimano Cranks? You’ll most likely need one of these.  If removing cranks, loosen the two pinch bolts and then use this tool to unscrew the plastic preload screw so you can take the cranks off.  If fitting cranks, tighten the preload screw using this tool and then tighten the two crank bolts. Be careful to nip the preload screw up somewhat gently, that’s why this tool doesn’t have anywhere to grip with a spanner/allen key.

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Are you a fan of Frictive products? Do you feel like becoming a low-key mobile billboard whilst looking casual and stylish? Grab a Frictive tee, wear it out on the trail and help spread the word! SPECIFICATIONS GARMENT: As Colour 5001 Staple Tee FIT: Regular MATERIAL: 100% Cotton SIZING: CLICK TO VIEW

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These tugs are specifically designed to keep your axle in place within your horizontal dropout frame. They are also adjustable from side to side at the point of contact with the dropout, ensuring that they remain perfectly square.

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